Finally, on the road

Via a very roundabout way where I lost my credit and debit cards, visited an amazing friend in France, visited Lourdes for 2 days and finally caught a train to Irun (very happy to be in Spain, if only because I could understand people again, sad but true) and then to Pamplona, I have begun my Camino. Arrived too late into Pamplona to get to Roncesvalles, so began my camino there. One hostel is open now, the Casa Paderborn, just after the Puenta Magdelena and to the left instead of following the Camino to the right into the city. There were 3 other women besides myself there, all Canadian. 3 Irish men, a couple of Germans, a Swiss and 2 cyclists. There were about 28 at the main albergue in Puente la Reina, and there might be 12 of us in the room tonight. This is just to say that there are many more people than I was expecting. I met 4 people in Irun who were going to start in Puente la Reina, so a day ahead.

The people who crossed from St. Jean, did so in a snowstorm, and then had to follow the road to Zubiri as well, as the Camino was covered over with snow. (I had decided against starting in St. Jean after witnessing the really bad storms in Lourdes and figuring those were also dropping snow on the route from St. Jean to Roncesvalles.) (8 de marzo)The path up Alto de Perdon had a patch of snow, but it´s been fairly warm for winter. The almond trees and patches of wildflowers were in bloom. I had wanted to go to Eunate, but am feeling tired and muddy and so, once again, walk straight to Puente la Reina. Next time? (I went there in 2005, it was lovely.) There are more people here tonight, I think 3 of the rooms are full. Someone snores quite loudly and Beth is convinced it's Peter, though later I realize that he doesn't snore at all, it's a different German man. The other 2 Canadians do not arrive. I heard one of them was having problems with her knee. It's interesting, on this Camino, there are many injuries early on, lots of knees, infected blisters, tendonitis, sore ankles and general sore feet. Early on, people are being told to rest, not walk, or they leave because of injuries. This all within the first few days of walking, granted, this is a difficult section of the Camino. Only 2 of the showers work. I go to mass and then everyone seems to end up having dinner in the same restaurant, I dine with a British man that was also at the mass, his name is John. I think we were the only 2 pilgrims there.

(9 de marzo, Puente la Reina a Estrella) The albergues in Lorca seemed closed, the one on the left as you are walking through town looked like it was having major construction. There is a bodega as you leave town which is new since I was last here. There are some tables and chairs outside a butcher shop as well as a pop machine, and I join the Dutch guidebook author there and eat a can of tuna with some bread. Then walk on to Villatuerta. The Ermita de San Miguel is locked, though I can see in through the grating. Past the bridge is a horse tethered to the ground and a bit tangled in the line. I consider helping it, but I'm afraid I will spook it, so leave it to it's own devices. Further up the road, there is another horse, a white one, also tethered that has crossed the road leaving the rope laying across the road. It's been sunny out most of the day, and I see a dry metal bowl, I pour what's left of my plain water in it and the horse walks back over and slurps it down, I wish I'd had more. I stay in the albergue as you enter town, the one where you have to leave early.

We all have dinner together, which is great as the whole meal ends up only at about 2 Euro (if I haven't mentioned, I think I can last 'til Santiago, if I only spend 20 Euro/day, ha ha) most of the men go out drinking, before they leave I mention that the doors lock at ten and that I think this is pretty strict here. Another man that is walking in reverse (back from Santiago) is trying to open a wine bottle, but no one seems to have a key, he ends up breaking the neck, he offers me some but the broken glass kinda' weirds me out so I decline. He tells stories about some of the albergues where he's stayed, what's been open, what's been closed.

Those of us that didn't go out, go to bed, we are all in the same room. Around ten there is a ruckus, voices yelling. Apparently, the Irish son got locked out of the albergue. The father says that the hospitalero locked the doors early before the son could get in, and there is an argument where people are mouthing off at each other. They finally come back up to the room, but are riled up and noisy, they start drinking in the room. Beth and I both tell them to shut up. I think there is going to be some sorta disrespectful mess left behind as revenge, but happily in the morning, there is not. Someone is snoring, and Beth thinks it's the man in the bunk below mine, and starts poking him with her walking stick. I find out later it wasn't him, and he was actually awake. I mention it to him later and apologize and he laughs. Tomas or Thomas? Super nice guy. I have to get up to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night, as I walk back out to my bed, the older Irish man is walking to the bathroom buck naked....more than I'd cared to see.