Belorado-San Juan de Ortega-Burgos

By the time I arrive in San Juan de Ortega my feet hurt so bad I lie on a bench near the Swiss-Chinese-Indian man and try to decided if I will continue on to next village, as was my intention, or not. We go on a tour of the Iglesia, he loans me his flashlight to go check out the lower level, but there's nothing down there. Eventually, we both to decide to stay. There are 6 of us, and then later another man arrives, though chooses not to interact with any of us.

There is a man burning brush out back and the ashes come in through the bathroom window. Later, he and his dog are in the bar. I have found that since I arrived, my knees have started to hurt, I'm having trouble going up and down the stairs. I put on every type of ointment that might work and hope for the best. It's a long walk to Burgos. Downstairs there is a bus schedule, I think it stops outside, but then realize I am mistaken and it stops along the N-120 near Zalduendo. I look at the Swiss man's guidebook to see what the route choices are. At 7 pm, we go downstairs for the sopa de ajo, a tradition carried forward from when the priest was still alive and the convent was still here. The albergue is now run by an association. On the really bright side, you no longer have to wash your laundry in the fountain (although there was something to be said for that experience, aside from polluting the water with soap) and there is heat in the rooms. The six of us head over to the bar, which has remained open for us. We have omelettes (French-style), with salads that have pickled onions and gherkins with them, and bread. I forgot my camera, but everyone else takes pictures. I think that it was 6 euro altogether, and really excellent. The Swiss man and I stop to look at the stars, in an amazingly clear and cold evening (one of the joys of walking in winter, it gets dark early enough to see the stars.) I had only recently learned to identify Orion. And I joke to him that I only know of 2 constellations: Orion and the Big Dipper. There are millions of stars out tonight. Such a beautiful sky! But it's really cold, and after a few moments, we go back into the warmth of the albergue.

17 de marzo - In the morning my knees have not improved. I walk out in the cold, past the bar, only to realize that I forgot a camisole thing I like. So, I go back. The dog, friendly enough last night, has been behaving a bit aggressive, though from a bit of a distance. I go back into the albergue, only the man I don't know is still there, I crawl around and look under the beds, but can't find it, and so leave. This time as I walk down the road, the dog is growling and approaching me. The bartender from last night sees this and says that the dog is afraid of the walking sticks, so I pick them up and carry them higher. The dog backs off. (I will find this is often the case.)

When I arrive at the entrance to the woods that leads to Ages, there is a sign with an "alternative" way to Burgos. It looks like it might be flat, following the highway. I decide to go that way, thinking that it will be easier on my knees (and the cattle guard in the forest freaks me out, the holes in the grate are almost the same size as my shoes, last time I came this way I threw my pack over and crawled through the barbed wire fence) as well as thinking that maybe I will catch the bus. The way follows the road (mostly used by logging trucks) as it winds down to Santovenia de Oca, and then over to the highway. Don't see another soul until I follow the road out of Santovenia to a truck stop along the highway. I go in and order toast and a coffee. The toast is large slices of baguettes, coffee is good, and the bathrooms are super clean. I think there is a hotel attached as well. Truckers come and go. After I leave, just as I have found the Camino markers, that pretty much shadow the highway all day to Burgos, and am thinking that this seems like a nice enough option, a truck passes me and then I hear an explosion behind me. When I turn, all I can see is a big wall of smoke drifting across the fields. Then I see the truck emerge out of the smoke, hobbling into the parking lot.

The route passes through Zalduendo (I choose not to catch the bus), Ibeas de Juarros, Castillo del Val, and Castanares before arriving at the outskirts of Burgos. My guidebook says to cross the highway toward the river, I can't figure out how to approach the river, but see "las flechas amarillos" so follow them along a very narrowed deserted path, which them comes alongside abandoned buildings, and eventually through a pedestrian tunnel under the train tracks. I wouldn't want to walk here late in the day. Finally arrive at the Cathedral and see both Agnes and Alex. We are all trying to find the new albergue, which is somewhere near here. I run into the Museum entrance where I think I can get help, they give me a map. After wandering and still not finding it, I go back to the turismo in the same square and they try to direct me again. I get on the right street (though I am unaware of this) and attempt to climb some stairs when a workman blocks my path to tell me just to go down the street further pointing to"la puerta marron." I keep thinking, "there is no purple door," until I remember that actually means "brown" and lo and behold, it's the albergue. There is still some construction going on, but a couple of the floors are open. After I get settled and clean, the woman at the desk shows me where I can go find socks (since I left all of mine in Santo Domingo.) Turns out to be the same place as I bought boots on my last trip.