Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Logrono to Burgos by bus, Burgos to Tardajos - Day 7

Bite the bullet and take the bus.  It basically follows the Camino, though five stages in less than two hours, passing by pilgrims, separated by long distance, carrying forth in the rain, and I wonder to myself, "Why would anyone choose to do this?"  It rains until we arrive in Burgos.

Outside the bus station, I'm looking for a cash machine, I was having trouble setting a long enough travel hold on my account, and I don't want to get stranded if my bank suddenly denies my access to my account.  (14-day alert seems to be a new policy, they say I can call when my card is declined to extend it, but that doesn't really work when you aren't carrying a phone, and for all intents and purposes, I'm not.  I never got a SIM card, never put any minutes on it.  I could look for a shop here, but in the end, I don't really want one.  I've never carried one before, and I was okay.  I feel like I'm giving into everyone else's fears, and what suddenly has become "necessary" vs. a luxury or way to hang onto to things that should be broken:  you gotta' leave the shore.)  A man tries to figure out what I'm looking for, but in the end points me to a public toilet.  I cross the bridge toward the Catedral instead.

The afternoon quickly heats up.  I have on rain pants because I thought it would rain, and am overheated and irritable.  The only other person walking in the same direction is a man named Jim, we start walking together on the outskirts of Burgos, I warn him about my irritability (heat, illness, dehydration, clothing, sore feet, not eating enough??? I don't know) but he accompanies me to Tardajos anyway, and then continues on.  Tardajos was my destination.

I stay at the municiple albergue (third time.)  I'm the second person to arrive, the hospitalera offers me a beer, which I accept, mentions that his father is visiting and asks if I would like to join them for dinner, I accept that, too.  By the time la cena rolls around, there are five of us, and a dog, plus Javier and his father.

Family meal. Stories.  Kindness. The food is amazing.  He makes an omelette with charred asparagus which is just phenomenal.

(Logrono-Navarette-Ventosa-Najera-Santo Domingo-Granon-Belorado-Villafranca Montes de Oca...-Burgos via autobus; Burgos-Villalbilla de Burgos-Tardajos via foot power.  10 kms.)

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