Portomarin to Casanova - Day 27

Intermittent rain/sun/rain.  The day feels like it goes on forever. I decide not to stay in Palas de Reis (I never have, actually) and after checking out the Iglesia and getting a stamp, continue on, alone, toward Casanova.  I don't eat, I just want to get moving.  Lonely walk, I try to move quickly, I don't like walking this section alone, it feels deserted, childhood fears of not going into the urban/suburban woods alone get the best of me every time, and I can't enjoy it, enjoy the trees, the peace, at all.

In San Julian, I briefly consider checking to see if a bed is available, but continue on.  In the next village, I do walk in, am told it is "complete."  I feel somewhat dejected, though, since both lodgings are relatively small, and recommended in the Brierley guide, it's to be expected they'd be full.  I consider "cowboy" camping, I have an emergency blanket that I could use as a ground clothe.  My feet are killing me, and I really should've eaten.  Walking on to Melide is the other option if there isn't a bed in Casanova.  Last time I was here (2009), there was nothing else besides the albergue there.

It pours before I arrive in Casanova, which would rule out sleeping outside. Thankfully, there is a bed available. When I sort myself out, I wander over to check out a new-to-me (the man tells me that it has been open for the past four years) taberna across the road.  I walk in and basically say, "I need to eat."  He offers me paella from a dish on the table, and heats it up in the microwave.

Two women walk in while I am eating, and then walk out again.  Later, another American man walks in, and in the ensuing conversation, I find out that the taberna is closed.  It's only open until 6 pm, he has another job, or place to be in the evenings.  He makes the man a sandwich anyway, and when I ask, says I can stay to finish my food while he cleans.  I'm actually surprised (and grateful) that he served me at all: I walked in just before 6 pm.

In spite of raucous voices downstairs before coming to bed, once everyone is in the room, this is the quietest night I've had with other people.  Cracked window open when no one was looking, but still muggy and sticky in such close quarters (ten bunks in a relatively small room  There's a second room on the floor, but only one person in that room.)  The birds came noisily to roost for the night in the wisteria under the window.  I thought someone would get up and close the window, but they don't, and the birds quiet down.  Bed is noisy, it squeaks loudly every time either I, or the man in the lower bunk move in the slighest.  Top bunk again, though not so hard to get in and out of.

Wind blows all night.  Follows the rain.

In the morning, sun.

The albergue in Casanova, April 26/L Herlevi 2017